You can’t abandon the color in your life just because it’s winter.
You’ve seen the clothes – the tweeds, berets, earthy browns and bulky knits. If your face is to have any impact at all this season, it’s going to need color.
In Paris, winter colors were catch-lined “impressionist.” Most of the color falls on lips and in contrast, makeup is used for a natural, almost “naked,” look for eyes.
But see the porcelain skin, understated eyes, rich red lips and matching nail color on our cover girl and you’ll understand the look for winter as Estée Lauder interprets it.
It’s a look most of us can wear easily because the new colors are designed purely to enhance your natural coloring.
Makeup artist Bruce Packer used Estee Lauder’s Spice Market colors for our cover girl.
This season they’re big, round, clear and rimmed in natural color. Smokey clays if your eyes are blue or grey, coppery browns or mossy greens if they’re green, hazel or brown.
New winter browns are Charlie Goldfrost Brown, Cyclax Woodtawns, ColorStay™ Crème Eyeshadow.
In greys there’s Elizabeth Arden Slate, Max Factor Gold Spark Blue, Revlon Guilty Grey.
In greens try Estee Lauder Sage Green, Innoxa Mint, Avocado and Green, Coty Grass powder shadow.
Oatmeal is the most acceptable color for a highlighter – like Lancome new liquid Ombre Fidelle Peche or Juvena Silk Porcelain, Estee Lauder Crushed Wheat or Geminesse Bronze Gold Frost.
Cheek color is changing, moving away from just an expanse of blusher, towards a lot of contouring.
When the face on this page was made up, no pink blusher was used. Instead, makeup artist Bruce Packer wielded his brown-powdered brush in the hollows under the cheekbones, as naturally as possible. The effect: barely visible color, subtly highlighted cheeks.
Apply color in the hollow made by sucking in your cheeks. If you feel you still want color on the cheeks, gently stroke a blusher on to the bony area you can feel with your fingertips. Sweep it as far as the hairline. Use warm colors, like Ultima II Glazed Peach Blushing Creme, Estee Lauder Pink Ginger or Yardley Peach Powder blusher.
If you want a brown contour color, Harriet Hubbard Ayer has a pack of two blushers and a contour powder, while Elizabeth Arden winter brown, Sweet Date Blushing Cream.
Lips & Nails
This is where the attention is focusing. Your lip color will be the one glimmering point on your face (apart from sparkling eyes and teeth).
When you choose the color consider that apart from the lips you will use it on your nails. Will it suit them? The colors are rich and heady and two coats of the lipstick with a flat lip brush will give a whole new dimension to your face.
Put color just inside the natural line of your mouth if the shape is full, and avoid the deepest colors. If your mouth is small, apply color just outside the natural line. A top coat of gloss gives a translucent look. Going one step further, there’s a look for the day that’s very soft and alluring. Outline the mouth with a lip pencil and fill in with clear color.
Rich colors are Ultima II Tapestry Red lipstick and nail varnish, Christian Dior Winter Reds for lips, Lancôme Brique for lips and nails and Estee Lauder Brandied Cherry for lips and nails.
The base you build your makeup on is all-important. If you have perfect skin you need only a touch of foundation or base under the eyes. Very few of us have perfect skin.
The color of the base you choose must be the color of your skin. Don’t test it on your wrist or hand, try it on your face.
To apply, use a makeup sponge rinsed in water. Squeeze a little base onto the sponge. This method has two advantages – it gives the skin an even, matt finish and the base is finer and more translucent thanks to the damp sponge.
Always apply base across eyes and lips. The point of your base is to hold the makeup you apply on top.
Allow the base two or three minutes to dry. Finally, when makeup is complete, pat loose powder over it. Take a cotton wool ball, dip it into the loose powder then gently press into the skin. Dust off excess powder for a matt finish. Try Yardley Loose Powder, Innoxa Face Powder.